Like many, I once believed that e-collar training was cruel. I thought positive reinforcement was the only right way to train a dog, until I had Laila. As much as I learned and worked with her, she just wasn’t as responsive to the training as I needed her to be.
As a result, I happened upon balanced training methods, thanks to friends who had faced similar difficulties with their own dogs. The more I learned, the more I saw how incredible this tool could be, when used correctly.
There are a lot of myths and assumptions out there about e-collars, and many of the claims and beliefs simply are not true. This post breaks down those myths and explains the truth behind proper use of an e-collar.
Remember that I am not a dog trainer, rather am an eager student who has worked with an awesome trainer to use an e-collar with Sitka.
Modern Day E-Collars vs Shock Collars
You’ve probably heard the terms e-collar and shock collar used interchangeably when referring to such tools. More often than not, the term “shock collar” is used today as a way of intentionally creating a reaction in people to associate pain and harm with its use.
The first electronic collars were introduced during the 70s, based on the psychology of shock treatment. The tools were designed to shock dogs using three different settings.
Modern e-collars use TENS technology (Transcutaneous Electrical Nerve Stimulation), which delivers a mild pulse that stimulates muscle contraction (the same thing your PT or Chiropractor uses on you when you are in for treatment).
They are also designed to safely and humanely deliver the stimulation to dogs as small as 5 lbs.
Not all E-Collars are the Same!
While the archaic shock collars of the 70s are no longer produced today, there are still a number of low quality, inhumane e-collars on the market. Nearly every trainer I have met or follow on social media use the E-Collar Technologies Mini Educator, which has a stimulation level range from 0 to 100.
Do not buy an e-collar from a chain pet store or some off-brand from Amazon (which also includes any ads you might see in this post. I wish I had better control of the ads, but I don’t always have the choice!).
How E-Collars Work
This stimulation interrupts the dog’s thought process through an unpleasant, but not painful sensation.
As I will mention several times in this article, the stimulation reinforces commands the dog already knows. With proper conditioning, the dog learns how to stop the sensation by responding correctly to a command.
The e-collar can also be used to deter undesirable behaviors like digging, counter surfing, “popcorning” in the car, jumping, and more. In this instance, your dog learns to associate the unpleasant feeling with its own behavior.
Think of the e-collar as an extension of the leash. Just as your dog feels a tug on their collar when they reach the end of the leash, the e-collar is sort of like a tap on their shoulder, only does not cause damage to the larynx or spinal cord like a jerk of the collar can.
Now let’s get into those myths about e-collar training!
Myth #1: E-Collars Hurt Dogs
Used incorrectly, yes, e-collars can hurt a dog.
So can a flat collar.
So can your hand.
So can a leash.
Think about your kitchen knife, a tool you probably use every day, multiple times a day.
Have you ever used that same knife to kill someone? I sure hope not.
When used correctly, a sharp knife can create delicious meals for your family. Used incorrectly, it can be a murder weapon.
Catch my drift?
Any tool can be misused. When an e-collar is used correctly, under the guidance of a professional trainer, then they are incredible tools that make life safer for your dog and give them more freedom.
Hold up. Safer? More freedom?
Yes.
I have 100% confidence that Sitka will respond when I recall him back to me. Even if there is a squirrel, a dog, something tasty, a bear, you name it. I can call him off anything because of the e-collar.
Sitka’s working level ranges from 4 to 10 in low distraction zones. If I have to call him off something especially exciting, I might have to dial up to 30.
What this means is that I can give Sitka more freedom when we hike and trail run with full confidence that he will obey commands.
Low quality, cheap collars and poor training methods are often used to demonstrate the abusive side of the tool.
Myth #2: E-Collars are for Lazy People
If e-collars are for lazy people, then I’ve been doing this all wrong.
I have worked with Sitka on a daily basis since the day I brought him home in December 2019. I worked harder once I started working with my trainer and had homework on a regular basis.
Those who oppose e-collars claim that having to use a tool equals laziness. What they don’t proceed to recognize is that the following items are also tools:
- Collars
- Leashes
- Harnesses
- Halti’s/Gentle Leader
- Food
Everything mentioned above is a tool. Everything mentioned above are tools that most trainers use.
Efficiency does not Equal Laziness
What some claim as “lazy,” I call efficient. E-collars allow me to communicate with my dog in a way that they understand. They learn more quickly because the tool is more effective.
Since I love to bake, let’s use a baking example.
Let’s say I’m making a lemon meringue pie. I can use a whisk and whip those egg whites for 20-30 minutes (or longer, trust me, I’ve tried it), or, I can use egg beaters for 5 minutes and save my arm strength for the gym.
Does it make me lazy to use an egg beater over a whisk? Nope. It makes me efficient. Now, I have an extra 15-25 minutes of my life back, my arm isn’t wiped out, and I’ve got perfect peaks.
Here’s a great personal example of a tool used by R+ advocates (positive reinforcement) that I consider lazy: the Halti or Gentle Leader (you can see in the name that it’s all about marketing: This tool is gentle!)
We used one on Sora because she pulled on walks. Inspired by halters used for horses, the design allows the handler to control the dog’s head position and helps reduce pulling. Magic!
Sora would also run away and hide every. single. time. we got out the Gentle Leader. She fought and turned her head when we’d put it on.
We didn’t have to teach her how to walk without pulling because we just used the Gentle Leader.
After reading this great Instagram post from @flashdogtraining, I understood why she resisted so much. A dog’s nose is it’s most sensitive organ, and the straps on this tool place pressure directly on the snout.
Guess what? Sitka wags his tail when I bust out the e-collar. He knows it means we’re going on an adventure.
E-Collar Training Goes an Extra Step
E-collar training actually requires an extra step than positive only.
Larry Krohn, one of the most well known balanced dog trainers explains his method in this Facebook post.
First, he teaches a dog a command using food and marker words. Once the dog knows that command, he introduces the e-collar, pairing it with the food and marker words.
Only when the dog understands a command is the e-collar used to both reinforce behavior or correct for non-compliance.
Myth #3: E-Collars Cause Confusion in Dogs
I found the exact opposite to be true once I began using tools like prong collars and e-collars.
When I relied on treats alone, I was only as valuable as the treats I had or I used them as a bribe. It didn’t matter how much I squealed, engaged in play, walked back and forth along the same street, if I wasn’t constantly shoveling food down my dog’s throat, my dog would find something else more enticing.
I had no idea how to engage my dog otherwise and they had no idea what I wanted from them.
Good trainers don’t just slap an e-collar on a dog and start pushing buttons believing that it will magically change a dog’s behavior. An e-collar won’t be introduced until a dog is fluent in a command, as explained above in #2.
What does cause confusion in dogs is asking for commands before they understand what it means, and then getting mad at them for not doing as they’re told.
This is exactly what happened with Laila and I didn’t understand the disconnect in our communication. I was just always frustrated with her and neither of us were in a place to work together successfully.
Myth #4: E-Collars are Used to Punish Dogs
E-collars are used to both reinforce behaviors the dog already knows, and correct when the dog does not obey or engages in an undesirable behavior using low level stimulation.
By first teaching the dog the commands, we can then use the e-collar to get the dog’s attention, similar to your phone’s vibration when someone is calling you.
As an example: During a hike, I call for Sitka to come using his base stimulation level (about 6 out of 100). At that same moment, he’s caught wind of a squirrel in the vicinity and wants to find that critter.
He hesitates on my first call, so I dial up to 10 and use the continuous button until he decides to release that pressure, and sprints back toward me so that I can re-release him to go find that squirrel (of course, I never allow him to chase our animal friends!)
You know that R+ training uses punishment as well, right?
What? Egad! It can’t be true!
Indeed, my friends.
- Ignoring a dog that jumps on you is negative punishment. (it also doesn’t really work, see this Instagram post)
- Withholding a treat for breaking or not performing a command is negative punishment.
- Removing access to your dog’s favorite window spot because they bark at everything that goes by is negative punishment.
But, that has the word “negative” in it! That can’t be right!
Negative doesn’t mean “good” or “bad.” Negative means “the removal of something” to discourage a behavior.
Myth #5: E-Collar Training is not Science-Based
Here’s the thing with science. It changes constantly. One year scientists prove one concept, the next, they show different results. “Scientific” studies can and do have biased results, depending on the subject.
The fact is that there are not enough quality studies on dog training that support this claim. Research shows that punishment can be effective, particularly when paired with positive reinforcement. Further, there is no evidence that shows that reinforcement is more effective and punishment can result in adverse effects.
This Instagram post by @itshenrythebully does a great job of explaining how science-based claims are not always what they seem and require more studies. And here’s another from university professor who focuses on scientific literacy.
Myth #6: You Can’t Use E-Collars on Small Dogs
Um, why not?
I’ve seen trainers use e-collars with all kinds of dogs, ranging from chihuahuas and dachshunds to Great Pyrenese. Smaller dogs require more delicacy and size-appropriate tools, yes, but there’s no reason one can’t use an e-collar on a small dog.
In fact, e-collars are great tools for highly reactive small dogs who can’t handle a leash correction. The e-collar lets them know that the behavior is not appropriate.
Myth #7: E-Collars Will Make Your Dog Afraid of You
The misconception is that e-collars use intimidation tactics in order to get the dog to do a behavior, but that couldn’t be more incorrect.
Used incorrectly, sure. So can “non-aversive” tools.
I worked with a trainer for Laila who used a Martingale collar. When we wanted Laila to turn, we’d do a sort of snap that, when performed correctly didn’t hurt, but was tricky to get right without yanking. Soon after implementing this tactic, I’d notice Laila flinching and cowering every time I went to make the snap motion.
Case in point. Improper use of any tool can make your dog afraid of you.
With proper conditioning, e-collars are wonderful tools that teach dogs how to make decisions and control the stimulation they receive.
Here’s a great post with several examples comparing appropriate and inappropriate methods of using the e-collar to curb undesirable behaviors.
Myth #8: E-Collars Burn Dogs’ Necks
If you’ve ever read an article discussing the abusive traits of e-collars, then surely you’ve come across horrific images of dogs with “burn marks” on their necks.
These aren’t burn marks. They’re caused by allergies and improper use. Some dogs, including Sitka, have allergies to nickel, the metal used in the contact points on my e-collar. The manufacturer suggested I switch to the hypo-allergenic titanium contact points, and he continued to have allergies.This resulted in scabs.
I’ve since switched to plastic contact points and have had no issues.
The second reason you see photos of “burn marks” is a result of leaving the collar on for too long. The e-collar position must be switched every 2-4 hours, otherwise pressure sores will occur (just as humans experience bed sores when they’re stuck in bed for long periods of time). A properly-fitted collar that is rotated regularly will prevent these sores.
See this Instagram post by my pal @falcothedog for more explanation.
Myth #9: E-Collars Should only be used as a Last Resort
I don’t know about you, but if I learned of a tool that expedited the learning process, bridged the bond between my dog and me, built confidence in my dog, and provided off leash reliability, I wouldn’t wait to try everything else before using this tool.
I get it, it seems like a last ditch effort because you want to try positive reinforcement to see if it will work. Truth be told, not all dogs need to use an e-collar. It depends on your dog’s personality and your lifestyle.
But if you enjoy hiking and trail running and going on other adventures with your dog, then why wait until you’re frustrated and can’t stand your dog?
Think of it like this:
You always wear your seatbelt in the car.
You purchase car, health, and home insurance, just in case.
If you live in the Northwest, you always bring a raincoat, even if the forecast shows sunny skies ahead.
I didn’t get the chance to use the e-collar with Laila and we were both miserable and frustrated. I chose to use it right away after I got Sitka and we’ve been able to enjoy our time together nearly every day since day one.
What is your experience using an e-collar?
Did you used to believe some of the myths in this article (I sure did)?
PIN FOR LATER!
Hi Jen,
I’ve always shied away from E-collars, mainly because I saw them used as short cuts (i.e. zap the dog every time you don’t like what they’re doing) without the paired training you describe above.
In the cases where I’ve seen them used successfully (where the dog wearing them seemed happy and the owner rarely needed to use it because of solid training), the dog was generally a well balanced dog with a solid temperament.
I’m curious what your thoughts are on owners who use E-collars on dogs with fear-based aggressive behavior. My gut tells me that if a dog is barking or lunging at a passing dog, that an E-collar correction will only exacerbate the fear. You seem to have a balanced view of E-collars so I’m curious what your take is on that type of situation.
Thanks!
Hi Karen! The way you thought of e-collars was exactly how I used to think of them as well. Proper training is so, so different.
To answer your question, what my trainer had me do was to go on 3 20-min structured walks daily with Sitka using the prong collar. He’s reactive, so it meant that we spent many days walking up and down the same street, turning around if he started to pull or react. I would use the prong to correct if I needed to, but it was MY job as the handler to pay attention to his cues and catch him before he reacted (not always so easy!).
Then, we introduced the e-collar to our walks and did “tap and turns,” using the same 20-min structured walks. Once he could walk nicely on leash, we would then venture to places with other dogs, but kept our distance, slowly creeping in more closely as his reactivity waned.
Today, if I see his ears perk up at a dog coming our way, I use a slightly higher level (usually a 12 or so) to snap him out of his thinking. If he really starts to react, then I dial up because he has already learned that that is not appropriate behavior.
I hope this answer helped!
Hi..I am new to this dog training thing. Basically a cat person, I have recently been attracted to owning a dog around the time of severe depression and a leg amputated…it was great therapy.
I now have a 2.5 yr Plott female who is getting spayed when heat is done..another 2 weeks.
My new guy is 6 month PittBoxer 70lbs and very obedient and smart. I rehom d him but owner had him run the house..no crate..ate whenever..no boundaries..no cat or dog interaction.
I’m trying to teach him so much..crate..leash..eat at specific times then bowl up…certain rooms no…and intro to dog and cat. So much to learn. Day 5..he’s already great with a crate..but not out of my sight. He still pulls on leash so getting a halter. He quickly corrects when told no..come here..don’t chase..etc. He is treats motivated and praise.
He won’t leave my side and panics when I do. I’m working on all this but cat chasing is also a biggee. My cat loves dogs and thinks he is friendly but does outrun him when chased. I will use a long leash to correct that instinct to chase.
I keep him and female Plott separate as she wants to be Boss and acts mean toward him..slowly introducing them.. short times..a few each day..her leashed..him behind gate.
I give her alone time with me so she’s not so jealous..but I think it’s more fear..she’s very jumpy and highly alert( hunting blood)
Not sure about E collars…only think it’s shock treatment and hate that. It takes time to train..Properly. patience and consistency.. I know..I’m a behavior specialist for humans with intellectual challenges.
I think I will skip the Ecollar and go with commands..praise..phase out treats…and use my dog’s intelligence paired with his great obedience and my consistency to train.
I know the key factor is Patience and I just want everyone to get along..it’s only 5 days..so…trying my best here.
If you’re unsure about e-collars, then what I’d do is crate train your dog to teach them to be alone and then also teach the place command. It sounds like your dog needs jobs and place is a job. He’s not allowed to chase the cat if he is in place. When you do introduce your two Plotts, do so in a neutral environment with a lot of space. They both need to feel like they can escape if they don’t want to participate in the introduction. Introducing them in the house sounds like it might cause problems and they will feel trapped.
As far as e-collars being “a shock treatment,” that’s not so. Think of it as a communication tool instead of a punishment tool. I like to think of it as my translator that helps me speak dog.
Since the 70s I worked with (trained is the wrong word) border collies on livestock. I never used and e collar with them as the breed to me was too sensitive. Corrective action called for more physical activity on my part and working in smaller areas. Never had a problem. Then I got a BC/kelpie cross. We also got a BC/black mouth cur cross with strong hunting drive. Both dogs were more strong minded and less amenable than any BC I worked with or owned. We both mini educators. One of the best purchases we made. In the earlier days we used mostly the vibrate mode, usually around 10-20 strength if they failed to come to verbal commands. Now we hike without the collars but they were life savers when the dogs were younger, You can’t just slap them on, you need to educate yourself as to their use way before you ever put them on a dog.
Your story is a great example of training the dogs you have! You recognized their different needs and made adjustments. I’ve never heard of a Black Mouth Cur cross. They sound like a BC on steroids, haha. And yes, you’re right, training is absolutely key! Thanks so much for sharing your experience.
I usually pass by blogs and other conversations about e-collar training (Steve Snell at Gun Dog Supply is an exception, but the hunting and working community have long integrated e-collars into their training), but I gave yours a flier, mostly because I am always searching for good sites on backpacking with dogs. I will look forward to more of your work, less about e-collars for you’ve done a great job in your article. My only quibble: I hate the use of “punishment”; it implies retribution. I think correction is the far more accurate term. In that context, the e-collar is a tool for correction, but also for conversation (at the lowest level of stimulation that the dog can feel). What I will look for is more of your experiences doing multi-day wilderness backpacking with your dog(s). In the meantime, thanks for this article and for your site.
I also prefer the term correction to punishment, and advocate for proper use of this tool, as I believe you learned by reading this post. I appreciate you having a read through!
Thank you so much for this information, Jen. I have a lifelong affinity for Australian Shepherds, due to growing up in rural Idaho and their ability to be great running companions. As you may know, there are two lines to this breed: conformation and show. My first few dogs were from the conformation line and reinforcement training worked well, but then I got a line-bred puppy from pure working lines. She came out of the womb completely convinced that it was her job to manage everyone and everything on our farm. We took her to classes, tried different trainers, etc., but then things became much more serious when she attacked my brother’s dog.
This prompted us to send her to a brilliant trainer that used a balanced approach. The trainer was very honest with us and stated that she probably would never be the kind of dog that can be at dog parks, but that we would be able to manage her behavior. And she’s right. Kika will never be a get along with other dogs dog, but she’s our dog and fantastic at it. She is fine with our other animals that are part of her pack, but her life is to be one of being our working farm dog, she goes to the fields with us, feeds the animals, keeps them from leaving when we’re working with them. We have even got her to the point where she’ll be able to compete in agility and herding trials.
There is no way you could convince me this would be possible without the use of an e-collar. She just doesn’t like other dogs and is hardwired not to. It’s likely genetic, which is why I’m going to be removing from my breeding program. What e-collar training allows us to do is know that when we’re around other dogs, she is going to avoid them and look to us for guidance. I know that if we’re in the field and a strange dog comes on our property, she’ll recall back to me everytime. When out on walks, she’ll maintain a perfect heel, regardless of what other dogs are doing that she passes.
I am not embarrassed about our decision to go this route, as the alternative would be for her to be put down or never leave our farm. In a life or death situation, I chose Kika’s life and am very proud of her.
I’m so glad that you found a great dog trainer to work with you and Kika! I don’t know if you’re still in Idaho, but I dream of trail running along all those open trails!
Hi Jen – Great article! I recently went through a training program with my dog on how to use his E-Collar. I love it and I hardly have to use it for correction anymore. Except when I took him for Agility training last night he reverted back to old behaviors of bossiness and not follow directions. The facility won’t allow me to use the E-Collar so I am just wondering if you have experience with this type of resistance with Agility Training and what I can do about it? I hate for my dog to miss out on this fun thing to do together. Thanks!
I’m so glad you have had such great success using the e-collar! It’s such a great tool! I’ve not taken Sitka to agility, but I have heard that it’s very common for facilities not to allow dogs to use their e-collars. It’s completely unfair and based on false information. You could try something like barn hunt that might be more e-collar friendly, depending on where you live. I’ve been doing that lately with my dog and he has a blast!
Hello!
My 1 yo female Corgi is leash reactive around any dogs (not always but some days it’s so bad she can snap her collar )…. I just bought an ecollar after months (like 6 or more ) of just positive reinforcement… she isn’t super treat motivated if dogs are around though. I did teach her to not lunge at cars or people/bikes… but other dogs has been NO LUCK!.
She knows many commands, has decent recall unless she’s over stimulated and reactive on her leash. Would the “leave it” command be a good one to pair with this!? Like say a dog is approaching, she notices and I say leave it but she won’t look at me, then do I do low vibration and turn it up as the dog gets closer if she stops responding to me? Do I still give treats when she does look at me and not the dog?
We are doing a reactive dog class this week but I’m not super optimistic they will teach me anything new. So I’d like to incorporate this new tool!
It sounds like you need to maybe go back to the beginning with her and slowly work with her around other dogs. So make sure she can pay attention to all of your commands inside, at home. Then while walking up and down your street. Then at a park a far distance away from other dogs. I just use the word “no” instead of leave it. I find that it’s shorter, easier, and more useful, but leave it is fine, too. I’d also just do a 180-degree turn if she’s still that reactive.